Green isn't everyone's cup of tea. And green yarn might not be either.
A while back, I bought an olive green sweater to felt and cut into the shape a leaves. And ended up with three-fourths of the sweater leftover.
So we dyed the remnants with Kool-Aid, McCormick Food Color drops, Great Value Food Color drops and Wilton Icing Color.
A. Black Cherry Kool-Aid = brick
B. Cherry Kool-Aid = rosewood
C. Orange Kool-Aid = carmine
D. Lemon-Lime Kool-Aid = lime
E. Berry Blue Kool-Aid = teal
F. Grape Kool-Aid = walnut
G. Neon Green McCormick = apple green
H. Neon Blue McCormick = teal
I. Neon Purple McCormick = orchid
J. Green McCormick = pea
K. Yellow McCormick = olive-yellow
L. Red McCormick = vermillion
M. Blue McCormick = lilypad
N. Great Value Green = same color green, but with red fuzz
O. Great Value Yellow = sprout
P. Great Value Red = auburn
Q. Great Value Blue = cornflower
R. Wilton Black = bark
S. Wilton Blue = ultramarine
T. Wilton Brown = pecan
U. Wilton Burgundy = carmine
V. Wilton Copper = terra cotta
W. Wilton Kelly = India green
X. Wilton No Taste Red = chestnut
Y. Wilton Purple = wine
Z. Wilton Red = chestnut
1. Wilton Royal = Prussian blue
2. Wilton Sky = cerulean
3. Wilton Teal = bondi blue
4. Wilton Violet = iris
Most samples are a 1 by 1 inch square felted sweater containing an unknown amount of wool. Samples A, C, E and F a 1 by 1/2 inch.
The sweater was laundered three times to remove any residues from manufacturing or former owners. The samples were soaked for three days in tap water to make sure they were fully wet.
The amount of food color in each dye bath was 1 drop McCormick or Great Value, a trace of Wilton coating a toothpick or 1 tablespoon dilution of Kool-Aid (1 packet Kool-Aid to 8 ounces water).
The samples were soaked in the dyebath for a full day before heating.
Notes on how to overdye olive green yarn:
Several folks have e-mailed asking how to dye finished objects, either because the yarn dyelots didn't match or because they hate the yarn color.
The samples on this page illustrate the pitfall of dyeing finished objects, you can't predict if the food color will produce a solid color.
Sample N is the worst offender, despite a long soak in the dyebath, the food color bonded to the surface only. While many of these samples look fine from a distance, and would be great for shabby chic crafts, you would look like a giant pill bug if you wore the sweater.
I suspect that if this sweater had been unraveled, the green yarn would have dyed up better. Unfortunately, once a sweater is felted, there is no un-felting.
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